We spent New Year's up in Whitby, North Yorkshire. Two things should be known about Whitby - it has the bestest Fish'N'Chips in the country (according to Rick Stein, at the Magpie Cafe, we tried them, and lo, they were good. Cooked in lard, you see?), and one of the highest per capita Goth populations in all the world. The reason for the latter is that this is where Dracula came ashore (as a rat) in the book. Luckily, Whitby has managed to avoid a terrible excess of Draculiana - just one tacky concession which features Christopher Lee's "Eight Stone Cloak" (wtf?) and has retained its charm as a moderately "delightful" fishing port (although the fishing industry has been devastated due to, well, there being no fish left in the North Sea). Oh, and it is really chock full of fat people. Maybe this is not unrelated to the legendary and aforementioned fish'n'chips. Whitby St Mary's Church (by the famous Abbey) is one of the weirder churches I've ever been in, but all I can remember about it is something about a previous vicar having a deaf wife who listened to his sermons via gutta-percha ear trumpets. How random.
We also visited Robin Hood's Bay, which is MASSIVELY cute/twee (in a good way). The beach on New Year's day rivalled Oxford Street for the amount of foot traffic, but had more dogs (including a Shiba Inu, my current favourite breed) and seaweed and rockpools and fewer men holding 'Golf Sale' signs. Which can only be a good thing.
Well done, then, the North East. Having visited this region I've pretty much "done" England now, with the possible exception of Herefordshire. But who cares about Herefordshire? There's nothing there, is there?